Natural Insect Protection

10 All Natural Ways to Get Rid of Japanese Beetles

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By Futureman1199 – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=27435825


The story goes like this: in the early 1900s Japanese beetles were accidentally introduced into the American ecosystem via shipments from Japan. Mostly isolated to the Eastern and Midwest regions of the U.S., these green and copper-colored beetles have very few natural predators in our country, which has led them to become one of the most widely spread and damaging garden pests. Most active during the warmest summer months (mid June to late August for adults, fall and late spring for larvae), these beetles and their larval grub form can wreak havoc on your lawn. The adult beetles “skeletonize” nearly all forms of plant life, while their younger grub counterparts consume grass and other roots from below the soil. Because Japanese beetles eat in groups and feed from both above and below the soil, they can devastate entire lawns & gardens in no time. If Japanese beetles are destroying your lawn, or you’re just looking for ways to keep that from happening in the first place, here’s 10 All Natural Ways to Get Rid of Japanese Beetles.

Get Your Hands Dirty

The tried and true method of hand picking Japanese beetles from your lawn & garden is still the most effective approach to controlling these pests. It can take some time, but the effect it can have on the health of your plants is well worth the effort. For best results, do this in early morning, when Japanese beetles are most active. Using gloves, pluck the beetles from grass and other plant life being careful not to squeeze or crush them (doing so could attract more beetles). Dispose of them by dropping them in a bucket of soapy water (2 tablespoons of liquid dish soap per 1 gallon of water)—this is one of the most humane ways to eliminate Japanese beetles.


Feed the Birds

Keeping guinea fowl around your lawn & garden is a proven way to limit not only Japanese beetle populations, but that of ticks and other pests as well. However, not everyone wants to keep these loud birds as pets. In that case, finding ways to attract ducks and other birds to your yard will do the trick. Spraying your entire lawn with a soapy mixture of 2 tablespoons dish soap to 1 gallon of water will help force Japanese beetle larvae to the surface, which in turn will attract hungry birds (this should be done in fall and late spring, when Japanese beetles are in the larval stage of their life cycle). Continue this process weekly until no further larvae emerge from the soil.


Take Care of Your Plants

Japanese beetles are most attracted to rotting and overripe plants, so keeping a healthy lawn & garden is key. Promptly remove diseased or otherwise dying plants, trees, fruits and vegetables before they attract additional beetles to your yard. Harvesting plants before they become appetizing to beetles is important also.

Use Row Covers

Row covers allow air, sun, water and other essential elements to reach your plants while keeping Japanese beetles out. Remember: To remain effective, the edges of the cover must be flush with the ground, or otherwise firmly sealed. If Japanese beetle grubs have already infested your soil, this method is not for you, as it will only serve trap the beetles inside the cover with your plants.


Beneficial Nematodes

One of the greener options for Japanese beetle control involves introducing parasitic roundworms into the soil. Also known as beneficial nematodes, these organisms can devastate soil-dwelling pests like Japanese beetle larvae. Once they’ve located and entered a host, these nearly microscopic worms release a bacteria that’s deadly to the young beetles. After killing their host they move on to another beetle, reproducing in the process. For best results, introduce nematodes into your soil in late August or early September to attack the next cycle of beetles for the following year (while this is the optimal approach, nematodes can be added to the soil at any time, so long as the soil is sufficiently watered). Note: the nematode species Heterorhabditis is said to be most effective against Japanese beetles; the nematode pest control method targets larvae, not adult beetles. Beneficial nematodes can typically be found at your local home & garden store.


Choose Your Plants Wisely

While Japanese beetles enjoy eating a wide array of plant life, certain types are particularly attractive to these devastating pests. Inundating your garden with Japanese Beetles’ favorite food sources is just asking for trouble. Limit installing such plants as much as is reasonably possible. For a list of Japanese beetles favorite meals, click here.


All Natural Pesticides

Apart from hand-picking, natural non-toxic pesticides are the easiest, most effective method for combating these pests. For best results, treat your entire lawn & garden with an eco-friendly and water-soluble outdoor pesticide and repellent; treat monthly or as needed.


Drop Cloth

Drop cloths can be highly effective at cutting down Japanese beetle populations. At night, cover your plants with a sufficiently large drop cloth. In the morning when beetles are most active, remove the cloth and dispose of the attached beetles using the aforementioned bucket of soapy water.

Fruit Cocktail Trap

Most Japanese beetle traps are ineffective, usually only serving to attract additional beetles to your lawn & garden. However, a can of fruit cocktail can quickly remove active beetles from your yard. First, ferment the cocktail by leaving it in the sun for a few days—this will make it more attractive to beetles. Next, place the can on top of a brick or bricks stacked inside a pail filled with water (it’s advisable to keep this trap far removed from the plants you’re trying to protect). The cocktail will attract the beetles, the water will drown them. It’s that simple.

Soap + Water Spray

Mix 4 tablespoons of dish soap with water inside a spray bottle. This simple solution makes for a great, all natural Japanese Beetle pesticide. Spray on any beetles you see on or around your lawn & garden.

How to Apply PCO Choice and Yardsafe When Rain is an Issue

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At Cedarcide, our all natural outdoor pest control formulas are some of our most popular products. Our outdoor pesticide concentrate, PCO Choice, and its ready-to-use counterpart, Yardsafe, both help keep your yard free of biting insects and dozens of other bugs without endangering your family, your pets or the environment.

pco choice vs. yardsafe







While application of these products is rather straightforward (they’re best applied early morning or late evening, and can be used throughout your yard to kill and repel insects) there’s one issue that can complicate the process: Rain. We’re often asked questions like these:

  • “It rained after I used PCO Choice, do I have to apply it again?”
  • “It rained yesterday, can I apply Yardsafe today, or should I wait till the soil is dry?”


To simplify things, Here’s an outline of when and how to use PCO Choice and Yardsafe when rain is an issue:

Applying Before Rain

If the forecast is predicting heavy rainfall in the next 24 to 48 hours, it’s best to wait to apply PCO Choice or Yardsafeuntil after the rain has passed and the soil has adequately dried (moist soil is fine, but soil saturated with water is too wet for application). Similarly, if heavy rain occurs less than 24 to 48 hours after you’ve treated your yard, we recommend an additional application. Note: light to medium rains do not necessitate additional applications.  


Applying After Rain

Let’s say it just rained, maybe a few hours ago or the day before. If the soil is dry or only slightly wet, you’re fine to apply PCO Choice or Yardsafe to your lawn. However, if the soil is muddy, saturated with water or otherwise extremely wet, it’s best to wait until the soil has had more time to dry.


Additional Guidelines For Applying PCO Choice


Using a Hose End Sprayer, it takes just 4 oz. of PCO Choice to treat up to 5000 sq. ft. of outdoor space. PCO can also be diluted down to 1:1000 for larger, agricultural use. Avoid applications during peak sun hours—early morning or late evening is best. Apply monthly or as needed.

Dilution Instructions

  • Dilute PCO with warm/hot water; shake to mix until milky white
  • For Hose End SprayersAdd 4 oz. of PCO per 20 gallons of sprayed water (treats up to 5,000 sq. ft. of outdoor space).
  • For Tank Sprayers: Add 2 oz. per 1 gallon of water
  • PCO can be diluted down to 1:1000 for larger, agricultural use

how to bug proof your yard naturally

Additional Guidelines For Applying Yardsafe

Simply hook up the Hose End Sprayer directly to the bottle, then attach it to the hose and begin spraying. Avoid applications during peak sun hours—early morning or late evening is best. Apply monthly or as needed.

Vet’s Choice Vs. DAS Whats the Difference?

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At Cedarcide, we offer several pest-control solutions for both indoor and outdoor use. From concentrates to ready-to-use formulas, from personal & pet use to lawn & garden care, we have what you need to keep your home, yard and animals free of pests.

But which products are right for you? To make your shopping experience easier, we’re launching a series of blog posts to help you better understand the differences between our most popular formulas. Today we’re talking about our two all natural pet & livestock solutions: Vet’s Choice and D.A.S.


What is Vet’s Choice?

Vet’s Choice is an extra strength, all natural and highly versatile concentrate designed to control insects and parasites commonly found on pets and livestock. Vet’s Choice eliminates and repels fleas, ticks, mosquitoes, flies, mites, gnats, ear mites and dozens of other biting insects. Vet’s Choice can be mixed with water for use as a bath, spray or dip. Vet’s Choice can be used in stables, barns and kennels to reduce flying insects, or used as a treatment for mange, hot spots and other animal skin disorders.

Dilution Instructions

  • Dilute Vet’s Choice with warm/hot water; shake to mix until milky white
  • For Direct Spray: Add 4 oz. of Vet’s Choice per 1 gallon of water
  • For A Bath: Add 2 oz. per 1 gallon of water
  • For A Dip 1:200 ratio of Vet’s Choice to water


What is D.A.S?


DAS (Domestic Animal Spray) is an all natural and highly versatile solution designed to control insects and parasites commonly found on pets and livestock—think of it as a ready-to-use version of Vet’s Choice. Like Vet’s Choice, DAS is ideal for use in stables, barns and kennels to reduce flying insect populations, and can be used as a bath, spray or dip. DAS eliminates and repels fleas, ticks, mosquitoes, flies, mites, gnats, ear mites and dozens of other biting insects; it can also be used to treat mange, hot spots and other animal skin disorders.

To useDAS works best when animals are thoroughly wetted with the product and then allowed to air dry. Apply directly to your animal’s skin or simply add it to their bath for lasting protection against pests. For additional protection and prevention, dilute DAS with water at a 3:1 ratio and apply to your pets’ bedding using a spray bottle.


How Are They Different?

DAS is simply a ready-to-use, pre-diluted version of Vet’s Choice. Vet’s Choice contains 90% cedar oil; DAS contains 3% cedar oil.

Who Should Buy Vet’s Choice?
Those treating many animals—such as in agricultural use or for facilities like animal rescues—should choose Vet’s Choice because it’s concentrated, meaning it will last longer than the same amount of DAS. Vet’s Choice is also more customizable, allowing customers to dilute the solution to whatever concentration they prefer.

Who Should Buy DAS?
Those looking for a quick and convenient solution to protect pets or livestock from biting insects. While Vet’s Choice will last longer because it’s concentrated, DAS is easier to use, with less need to dilute.

What You Need to Know About Chiggers + How to Get Rid of Them


What Are Chiggers and What Do They Look Like?

Red bugs, mower’s mites, berry bugs, harvest bugs, chiggers—the arachnids scientifically known as trombiculidaemites go by many names. Ranging in size from 0.3mm to 0.4mm (1/60 of an inch), chiggers are nearly microscopic organisms known for their extremely itchy “bites.” Most active during spring, summer and fall, chiggers have four life stages: egg, larvae, nymph and adult. But only the larval stage individuals—in other words, the babies—are parasitic.

Found in moist vegetation worldwide (like grassy lawns, bushes and forests), these red-orange mites attach themselves to a host—a reptile, rabbit, insect, or human for example—in order to feed on their skin. Contrary to popular belief, chiggers do not bite or burrow into their hosts; instead, they inject digestive enzymes into their host’s skin in order to create a hole from which they can feed. After sucking up this liquified skin meal, the baby chigger drops to the ground, where it matures into its next life stage.

What Do Chigger “Bites” Look Like?

Appearing 6-48 hours after the chigger has fed, chigger “bites” consist of red bumps infamous for their intense itchiness. These irritating lesions usually occur in clusters in or around areas where skin and clothing are in close proximity—like the waist, ankles, armpits, crotch-area and back. While the first several days are the worst, these bumps can persist for weeks, even months in a milder form.

How Do You Prevent Chigger “Bites?”

Like with mosquitos and ticks, you need to employ a repellent when venturing into chigger territory. Because of the toxicity of traditional bug sprays, we recommend using only natural, non-toxic pesticides/repellents. For the sake of your pets well-being, treat them to repel chiggers, too. For additional protection, we recommend wearing long clothing when walking in suspected chigger areas, being sure to tuck pants into socks, and shirt into pants. After returning from such areas, bathe immediately in warm, soapy water. All possibly infested clothing should be promptly washed in warm-hot water, too.



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How Do You Get Chiggers?

This a two part question: (1) How does one get bitten by chiggers? And (2) How do chiggers get into our lawns. Walking through a wooded area, tall grass or weeds, or on lawns not treated with pesticides, is how most people pick up their first chigger “bites”. This is also a common way that chigger populations are accidentally introduced into our yards, as chiggers readily hitch a ride on our clothing only to be dropped somewhere near our homes. Other common hosts such as rodents, turtles, small birds, and more also contribute to the spread of chiggers—which is why a regular outdoor pest-control regimen is encouraged during the warmer seasons.

What To Do If You Have Chiggers

If you feel chiggers have invaded your lawn & garden, or if you want to prevent them from doing so in the first place, you’ll need to treat your lawn with an all natural outdoor pest control solution. In the heavy chigger months between spring and fall, we recommend treating your entire yard at least once per month to help keep your home and lawn chigger-free.


pco choice vs. yardsafe

5 Tips For Starting An Urban Garden🌵

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It’s well documented that gardening is beneficial for both mental and physical health. Which is great news for those with ample lawn space, but not so great news for those living in cramped urban landscapes. Urban Gardening—essentially, just gardening in urban spaces like apartments—is a way for those without yard space to enjoy the rewarding and therapeutic qualities of gardening. Because of the decreased sunlight and limited square footage associated with urban environments, an urban garden can be an intimidating and difficult project to start. But with a little know-how, some careful planning, and several visits to your local garden center, you can have a flourishing urban garden in no time. Here’s some tips to get you started.


Survey Your Space

How much space do you have—just room for containers like pots, or enough sq. footage for a garden bed or box? How much sunlight does your growing space receive each day? Do you want flowers, or something you’ll actually eat, like vegetables and herbs? These are the questions that will determine what type of garden you can grow, and how best to do it. Taking careful notes on sun exposure, physical space, and the types of plants you’re hoping to grow are important initial steps to planning your first urban garden. If you decide to consult a gardening professional (which we recommend), these notes will be essential in helping you both determine what growing methods are right for you and your space.


Pick A Growing Method

There are three main approaches to urban gardening: raised bed gardening, square foot gardening, and container gardening. Sunlight availability and the physical limitations of your growing space will determine which method is best for you. Here’s a short outline of each approach:

Raised Bed Gardening—If you have adequate space, this method affords the closest experience to traditional gardening. Raised bed gardening consists of isolating your plants using a large, raised container made from wood or brick. This approach offers additional protection from pests and elements like wind due to its elevated exterior. Raised bed gardening also allows for dense planting, and is a great choice for heat-loving plants like tomatoes and peppers.

Square Foot Gardening—If you’re looking togrow as many plants/vegetables as possible in your small space, square foot gardening might be the option for you. While not entirely different from raised bed gardening, this popular approach uses strict guidelines, specific soil mixtures, and a carefully measured spacing grid to make the most efficient use of your limited growing space. For specifics, visit squarefootgardening.com.


Container Gardening—If space is your biggest concern, container gardening—which requires the least effort, space, and setup—is likely your best bet. Using containers like small pots, this method allows you to grow various sorts of low maintenance plants within a limited amount of physical space. However, because you’re planting in a pot and not the earth, this approach will require that you water and fertilize your plants more often.  For more info on these growing methods, click here.



Choose the Right Soil


Because urban soils are typically filled with debris like rocks and sand, and tend to lack the required nutrients, organic potting mix is generally your best option. As far as fertilizer, organic is also the way to go. In addition to the known health risks associated with chemical-based growing practices, synthetic blends like Miracle Grow tend to overfill your garden with nitrogen, which can in turn attract more pests and reduce fruit and vegetable output. We recommend consulting your local garden center or nursery to determine exactly which organic growing mediums and fertilizers are right for you.

Why You Should Stop Using Synthetic Pesticides Today!

Choose Your Plants Wisely

The unique combination of your growing space’s size and exposure to sunlight will determine what plants can flourish in your urban garden. While choosing the exact right plants is best left to you and your local garden center, the following are low-maintenance plants that tend to do well in urban conditions, where sunlight and space are in short supply:

  • Basil
  • Oregano
  • Mint
  • Lavender
  • Chives
  • Cilantro
  • Rosemary
  • Thyme
  • Parsley
  • Cherry tomatoes
  • Beets
  • Carrots
  • Peas
  • Onion
  • Hot peppers
  • Kale
  • Zucchini

For more info on growing vegetables in your urban garden, click here.

12 Foods You Should Always Buy Organic (And 15 You Don't Really Have To)

Go Natural With Your Pest Control
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Synthetic, chemical-based pesticides are dangerous to pets, people and the environment. Choosing natural methods for killing and repelling insects is not only more environmentally sustainable, but healthier for your garden, too. Healthier plants are more resistant to disease and the effects of garden pests, so consistent watering and organic fertilizers are the first step to safeguarding your urban garden against damaging bugs like mites and moths.

While there are many effective approaches to natural pest control, an eco-friendly, outdoor pesticide is the easiest and most hassle-free option. (Tip: when choosing a ready-to-use all natural pesticide, be sure that it’s both plant-safe and water-soluble).

Looking for an outdoor pest control solution?
We offer two: PCO Choice and Yardsafe. Click here to learn the difference.

10 Ways To Get Rid of Roaches Naturally

Of all the pests people hate to see in their homes, cockroaches are right at the very top—and for good reason. While they don’t regularly bite or sting like other household pests—such as bed bugs, ants or fleas—roaches can be extremely bad for your health. In addition to worsening symptoms in asthma sufferers, roaches are known to carry over 50 different pathogens, including pneumonia, meningitis, salmonella, staphylococcus (staph infection) and streptococcus (strep throat). In other words, if you have roaches, you need to get rid of them as soon as possible.

Roaches, however, can be very difficult to eliminate. It’s no accident they’ve existed for over 300 million years, predating even dinosaurs. Their unique ability to hide and to live off nearly any food source—from feces to glue to other dead roaches—has made roaches one of our planet’s most durable organisms. If you have a roach infestation, don’t worry, there’s no reason to panic. With patience, consistent effort and a little know-how, you can send these disgusting insects packing. Here’s 10 ways to get rid of roaches naturally


Starve Them With Cleanliness

The smallest crumbs and spills can feed a roach for weeks, even months. Cleanliness needs to be a top priority. Floors, counter tops, flooring, appliances, cabinetry, sinks, dishes, back splashes—your entire house needs to be clean and free of food debris at all times (don’t forget to clean behind appliances!). We find natural disinfecting wipes help speed up the cleaning process.


Remove Clutter—Both Inside and Outside

Roaches use clutter—especially stacks of paper—to both hide and breed. Every instance of clutter is a roach nest just waiting to happen. If you’re experiencing a roach infestation, you need to keep your home as clean and free of clutter as possible. As far as outside, wood piles, brush, yard clippings, moist mulch, lawn equipment and furniture are all possible roach homes, and should also be removed.


Seal Up Your Food
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Leaving unsealed food out in the open is an easy way to invite roaches over for a meal. From leftovers to dry items like cereal, all the food in your home needs to be sealed. If you have an active roach infestation, this includes unexpected things like pet food and fruit bowls, too. Ziplock bags work, but hard plastic Tupperware-like containers are even better. Make sure the outside of your sealed containers are free of sticky residues and food debris, too. And always thoroughly wash and rinse bottles and cans before recycling them—roaches are attracted to any residual sugar, no matter how small the amount.

Remove Their Water Source

While roaches can sometimes go weeks to months without food, they can go only a few days without water. A single drop of water can sustain a roach for several days. So, successfully ridding your home of excess moisture is essential to eliminating a roach infestation. Never let water sit for prolonged periods of time, such as in sinks, potted plants, and pet dishes.

It’s also important to address the following areas of concern: leaking plumbing, sinks, bathtubs, basements, crawl spaces, A/C units, appliance drip trays, and attics. In the case of severe infestations, you might need to wipe down your shower and sinks regularly to avoid even the smallest sources of moisture (damp rags, towels and sponges should not be left out, either).


Take Out The Trash Daily

Trash cans are a buffet for roaches. To prevent and repel these pests, you’ll need to take out the trash daily. Trashcans should also remain firmly sealed at all times, and be cleaned regularly to limit food debris and other residues.


Seal Your Home

While necessary, weatherstripping windows and doors only goes so far. When it comes to roaches, you have to be diligent, and go even further—no crack, crevice or hole can go unsealed. In this regard, caulk is your best friend.

Indoors: fill any cracks/holes in cabinets, pantries, counter tops, piping, walls, ceilings, attics, crawl spaces, basements, under sinks, floorboards, and anywhere else roaches could enter your home. Outside: fill any cracks in foundations, roofing, and the exterior walls of your home. It’s advisable to use plugs or stoppers to seal drains, sinks and bathtubs when not in use, too.


Make a Natural Homemade Repellent

A mixture of 30% peppermint oil to 70% water makes for a natural, non-toxic indoor roach repellent. Spray floors, counter tops, cabinets, window sills, doorways, and other problem areas to deter roaches. Cedar oil works, too.

Have catnip lying around? If so, you’re in luck: catnip is another natural roach repellent. In 1999, Researchers at Iowa State University discovered that catnip—specifically a chemical in catnip called nepetalactone—successfully repels roaches.


A DIY Roach Trap

There are several easy but highly effective roach traps you can make at home. They all work on the same basic premise: (1) bait the bottom of a container (like a bottle) with something that will attract roaches (like sugar, fruit or bread), and (2) make sure to build the trap in such a way that roaches can easily enter the container, but not escape. This last feature can be done by lining the walls of the container with something slippery like petroleum jelly, or by creating a funnel at the top of the container. Place these traps in high traffic roach areas and leave them overnight. Continue this approach until you no longer capture additional roaches.

Natural Pesticides

Natural, non-toxic pesticides are the easiest and most effective solution for eliminating and preventing roach infestations. Because roaches often enter your home from your yard, it’s important to treat both inside and outside your house. We recommend using Cedarcide Original for indoor use—as both a spot killer and a repellent—and PCO Choice concentrate or ready-to-use Yardsafe for outdoor use.

Watch this video to learn how to properly treat your lawn with PCO Choice



DIY Roach Bait

Many experts advocate using a boric acid mixture to bait and kill roaches. While this approach is effective, it also poses health risks to pets and children. To avoid these risks, we advise using a 50/50 natural mixture of baking soda and sugar. Thoroughly mix the two ingredients and sprinkle the bait around roach problem areas and suspected entrance points—like windowsills, baseboards and doorways. Continue using this method until your roach infestation disappears.

How Do Bugs Survive Winter?


Have you ever wondered how bugs disappear in winter and then emerge so quickly in spring?  Most people think that bugs either migrate or die during winter.  What they don’t realize is that many insects continue to live among us during colder months.


How do they survive?

Many species such as butterflies, dragonflies, moths and beetles migrate in large groups to warmer areas during the winter. Distance depends on species but some have been known to travel several thousand miles.

Communal Living
Some insects such as bees, ants and termites practice communal living in order to survive on stored food and a colony for support.

Seek Shelter
Most insects seek shelter in the winter. This could be something such as a brush pile, a hollow log, a dog house or your home.

Freeze Control
Many insects have developed strategies for surviving harsh conditions including controlling their body’s ability to freeze.

Similar to hibernation, some bugs enter a paused period of development called Diapause. This allows them to slow their metabolism and become inactive. This can take place in insects at all life stages and some larvae can freeze and then resume developing when temperatures rise.

How do I keep them out of my home?

The best way to keep bugs from entering  your home is to make sure to block all possible entry points. Doing a thorough perimeter check around you home at least twice a year is good practice for bug prevention.

Areas to check could include but are not limited to:

Window Screens

Dryer Vents
Foundation cracks
Exterior cracks
Roof Openings
Trash Bins
Recycle bins

Note: Only you know your home, be sure to check any additional areas that could be a threat.

What kind of bugs are most common inside the home?

Fleas are one of the most common pests that we get calls about during winter. If fleas are able to live indoors they will continue to multiply in your home. Performing regular flea checks on your pets as well as using natural preventatives is key in keeping fleas from becoming a problem.

If you do see fleas,  be sure to wash any bedding, clothes or items that you believe could also have been exposed. Vacuuming floors and furniture will pick up any eggs that may be hiding in the fibers. Spraying down all areas with a natural flea spray will help kill existing fleas as well as repel more from coming in. (For bigger infestations, check out this natural home treatment kit.)

Bugs to watch for outside of your house

Do you stack firewood near your home? If so, you could be inviting wood boring bugs to your home. Make sure that you do not store wood inside your home and only bring it indoors when you are ready to use it. This will keep bugs that have been harboring in the wood from escaping inside your home.

Even though it’s year round, pest prevention should be easy. Knowing how to keep them out and what to use when you do see one is what’s most important.

Ticks: What You Need To Know

Tick Facts:

– Ticks are parasitic organisms that feed on the blood of their host.

– Although commonly thought to be an insect, ticks are actually arachnids which means they are more like spiders.

– The most common ticks are the deer tick (also called blacklegged tick), the lone star tick and the dog tick.

– Ticks can be active in temperatures above 45 degrees.

– Pets and people can contract multiple diseases from a single bite.

– Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever and Ehrlichia are all contracted by tick bites.

– Dogs are more likely to contract ticks than cats.

Top Places To Check For Ticks

  1. Ears
  2. Neck
  3. Under Legs
  4. Groin/Tail
  5. Between Toes

How to remove a Tick

Use tweezers to grip the tick as closely to the skin as possible. Slowly pull upward and try to keep the tick intact,. Leaving the head or any body parts in the skin can lead to an infection. Do not touch the tick with your hands as they can carry many diseases. Place the tick into a sealed container and mark the date. If you or your pet begins showing any unusual symptoms your medial examiner will likely want to test the tick. After the removal has taken place, thoroughly wash the area with rubbing alcohol, soap and water.

Preventing Tick Bites

  • Wear the right clothing. Try not to leave any bare skin where ticks could easily attach. Wear long sleeves and pants. It’s also easier to spot ticks in light colored clothing.
  • Use natural  insect repellent. 
  • Stay on the trails. When possible, stay on walking trails and away from overgrown areas where ticks may hide.
  • Check for ticks throughout the day.
  • Eliminate their habitats. Make your property less friendly to ticks by keeping your lawn and plants trimmed. Spray a chemical-free  insecticide to kill existing bugs and prevent future infestations.
  • Check your pets.  Regularly checking for ticks and using a extra-strength tick repellent such as TickShield will help prevent pets from bringing ticks into your home.

6 Tips To Eliminate Bugs Naturally

The best way to avoid encounters with pesky bugs is to take preventative measures. Use these tips to reduce unwanted pests.


1.) Maintain Your Yard

Prevents: Ticks, Mosquitoes, Chiggers, Flies, Ants

Insects find overgrown areas to be a perfect place to call home. Mowing regularly and removing debris from your yard is one of the first steps you should take in bug-proofing your home. Treating your lawn with a natural pesticide and insect-repelling mulches will also stop and prevent future infestations.

2.) Wipe Floors & Counters

Prevents: Ants, Flies, Cockroaches

Insects need food and water just like we do, so leftover crumbs or spills can quickly turn into a tasty buffet for them.  Storing food in airtight containers and keeping your floors and counters clean and is key. Vacuuming regularly is also important. For active bug problems, sprinkle home-safe granules or use an all-purpose bug spray to treat areas known to be affected. (Fun fact, Cedar Oil is safe to use in all food prep areas!)

3.) Remove Standing Water

Prevents: Mosquitoes, Flies

Mosquitoes rely on water for both feeding and breeding.  Remove standing water from trash cans, pots, furniture, buckets, etc.  If you have birdbaths, be sure to change the water every 2-3 days. If you cannot remove the standing water, add a small amount of PCO Choice to the water in order to repel mosquitoes from breeding there. Regularly removing debris and leaves from gutters and drains is also important as insects will often hide in these areas. 

4.) Seal Your Doors & Windows

Prevents: All bugs

It’s good practice to annually check your doors and windows for cracks or openings. Bugs (and other critters) look for places like this to gain access to your home. A simple weatherstrip or door sealing kit can often do the trick if you find openings. Also, spraying your doors and window seals with an all-purpose repellent will deter them from entering your home.

5.) Clean Trash Cans

Prevents: Mosquitoes, Flies

For a number of reasons including food and shelter, bugs love trash cans. Regularly wiping down your trash cans and spraying an all-natural repellent will significantly cut down  or eliminate this problem.

0001-96812826.) Treat Your Pets
Prevents: Fleas, Ticks, Mosquitoes

One of the quickest ways fleas and ticks enter your home is through your pets. Spraying your pets with natural flea & tick spray before going outside is a safe way to keep fleas and ticks away. Avoid heavily wooded areas during peak tick season and always do a tick inspection after outdoor activities.

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