Carved pumpkins, sweater weather, and gorgeous leaves are all things we associate with autumn. But when in comes to fall there’s something else to consider: Your lawn. The steps you take now during the fall months will determine the health of your lawn for seasons to come. By adhering to a handful of simple tips, you can greatly increase the chances you’ll experience a thriving, productive lawn once spring rolls around. Here’s 7 essential lawn and garden tips for fall.
Keep Watering and Mowing
It might come as a surprise, but during fall you should continue to water and mow your lawn more or less as usual. In general, it’s a good idea to lower your mower’s cutting setting to approximately 2 inches in height, as shorter grass tends to fare better in autumn (shorter grass means more sunlight exposure, which makes for a healthier lawn).
Aerate the Soil
Oxygen, water, and fertilizer cannot penetrate the soil if it’s too tightly compacted. That’s where aeration comes in—and fall is the perfect time to do it. By puncturing holes in your lawn, and removing plugs of soil here and there, you give your yard the opportunity to absorb any surface nutrients it might have otherwise been missing. Tip: for best results, fertilize just after aerating your lawn.
An even blanket of dry fertilizer applied in mid to late fall is a smart way to ensure a healthier, more productive lawn through the rest of the year. We recommend going organic with your fertilizer if at all possible.
Rake Up Those Leaves
As fallen leaves pile up on your lawn, they begin to choke the life out of your greenery. Robbed of oxygen and sunlight, the soil becomes less and less fertile. To give your lawn the best chance of flourishing in spring, keep it free of leaves through the fall and winter months.
Use Plant-Based Pest Control
Making your yard inhospitable to pests will save your lawn considerable damage during the fall months. We recommend treating your yard with a non-toxic outdoor pesticide. Here’s how to do it:
- Thoroughly spray the entire yard. Be sure to spray all hedges, shrubbery, flower gardens, bases of trees, and anywhere else bugs might hide.
- When spraying, pay special attention to the perimeter of your yard and home, including all fencing, foundations and brick barriers. This will prevent bugs from entering your yard or home after treatment.
- During the fall months, we advise spraying your yard at least once every 4-6 weeks, or more as needed
Cedarwood chips can also be used to create a repellent perimeter around your lawn and home. Simply sprinkle the chips along your home’s foundation and fence line, as well as any other insect trouble areas.
Kill the Weeds
Weeds are most vulnerable to herbicides in fall. If you’re hoping to finally conquer those pesky weeds, now’s the time. Be cautious when choosing an herbicide, however, as most are extremely toxic and unsafe for pets, people and the environment. Tip: Go with a non-toxic alternative instead.
Fill in the Bald Spots
Thick, healthier lawns are less susceptible to harmful pests and weeds—and filling in your yard’s bald spots is one of the easiest ways to achieve a healthier lawn. In fall, the ground is still warm, there’s plenty of moisture and there’s less direct sunlight drying out the soil, so seeds are more likely to take hold now than summer or spring. We recommend consulting a lawn and garden store regarding your specific grass and soil types, but in general an all-in-one organic repair mixture is the most convenient option for naturally filling in bald spots.
Our environment is filled with harmful contaminants. Widespread use of chemical-based pesticides plays a large role in our planet’s ever increasing toxicity. Because avoiding daily pesticide exposure is now all but impossible, it’s important to take steps to decrease the amounts of these toxins in our bodies. By lowering pesticide levels in the bloodstream, you can decrease your chances of experiencing the many horrifying effects of pesticide exposure—including cancer, diabetes and infertility. Here’s 9 things you can do to lower your risk of pesticide poisoning.
Eat Organic (and Reduce Dairy and Meat Intake)
Eating organic has been shown to greatly decrease pesticide exposure. For instance, in one swedish study, which looked at pesticide levels in the bloodstream both before and after switching to an organic diet, it was found that eating organic foods lowered certain pesticide levels by nearly 95%.
Reducing dairy and meat intake has also proven helpful. Because pesticides and other harmful chemicals accumulate in fatty cells, and because meat and dairy are more likely to be contaminated with GMOs than produce, limiting your intake of animal-based foods is a fairly easy way to lower your risk of pesticide poisoning.
Switch to Non-Toxic Pesticides
Clearly, personal pesticide use represents the most direct source of pesticide exposure. Switching from chemical-based pesticides to naturally sourced alternatives is a smart choice, not just for you and your family, but also for your pets and the environment.
While not all experts agree on dry brushing’s effectiveness, many swear by it as a method to detox the body of chemicals—including pesticides. Considering how many pesticides we’re exposed to daily, the concept of deep cleaning the skin to remove residual exposure seems like a no-brainer step to take. For more info on dry brushing, and how to do it properly, click here.
Shoes Off in the House
Shoes are a common vehicle for pesticides to enter our homes. We walk around every day unknowingly collecting pesticides on our clothing and shoes, and when we bring those things into our homes, we’re bringing the toxic chemicals along with them. An easy way to decrease this source of pesticide exposure is to take your shoes off before, or just after, walking through the door.
Drink Lots of Filtered Water
Switching from tap to filtered water, and drinking lots of it, is a smart way to ensure your body’s capable of naturally detoxifying itself—sufficient hydration is essential to that process.
Eat More Cilantro
Cilantro isn’t just delicious, it’s good for your health, too! Several studies have revealed the herb as an incredible detoxifier—including the removal of heavy metals, pesticides and herbicides.
Exercise and a healthy organic diet are crucial to your body’s detoxifying processes. Firstly, regular exercise increases healthy blood circulation, which in turn increases the rate at which toxins are flushed from the body. Secondly, toxins like pesticides are often stored in our body fat, and regular exercise is a natural way to break up fat cells and eliminate the stored contaminants.
Increase Your Fiber Intake
Fiber is conducive to digestive health. In short, it helps things move more quickly through your system—and that includes chemical contaminants such as pesticides and herbicides. For a list of fiber rich foods, click here.
Eat More Citrus
Eating more citrus is an easy way to encourage your body to flush insecticides and herbicides out of your system. Pectin, a fiber naturally abundant in citrus fruits, has a long history of medicinal uses. From helping prevent colon and prostate cancers, to diabetes and acid reflux relief, pectin offers countless health benefits. But above all, pectin is known as one of nature’s most gentle yet effective detoxifiers, heavy metals and pesticides included.
We love horses here at Cedarcide. So much so, in fact, we’ve rescued 7 of them from kill pens as part of the Cedarcide Horse Rescue. The strength, grace and kindness of these majestic animals continues to be a great source of inspiration for our Cedarcide team.
Occasionally we’re asked, “Is cedar oil toxic to horses?” The short answer is No—when properly formulated and properly used, cedar oil is not toxic to horses. But there’s more to be said on the topic. Let us explain.
Cedar Oil And Horses
It’s important to note that you should never use full-strength essential oils directly on your horse’s coat—that includes cedar oil. Undiluted essential oils can be irritating to horses’ skin, and “hot” essential oils—which includes cassia, cinnamon bark, clove, hyssop, lemongrass, ocotea, oregano, and thyme—can actually cause mild burns and rashes. When it comes to cedar oil specifically, some species of cedar—like Western red cedar and white cedar for example—are naturally toxic and irritating, and should never be used in topical horse products.
Full a full list of plants toxic to horses, click here.
How Is Cedarcide Cedar Oil Different?
Firstly, Cedarcide products never contain toxic species of cedar. Secondly, because we use only the highest quality cedar oil sourced from only pet-safe cedar trees (Juniperus ashei, to be specific), our products are always non-toxic, all natural, and safe for pets, including horses. Using a multi-step filtration process, our cedar oil is purified of all unnecessary contaminants and any other potentially harmful ingredients. However, as with any topical animal product, we suggest testing your horse for possible sensitivity or allergy to cedar oil with a light initial application.
How To Use Cedarcide For Horses
At Cedarcide, we offer four products for horses and horse owners: our all natural insect spray, Cedarcide Original, our natural extra strength insect spray, Tickshield, our concentrated pest-control bathing solution, Vet’s Choice, and a ready-to-use Domestic Animal Spray, D.A.S.
Note: all our pet products are natural, eco-friendly and non-toxic.
Tips for Using Cedarcide Original and Tickshield on Horses
We’ve found that some horses dislike being sprayed—for whatever reason, the spraying or spritzing action can occasionally frighten some horses. Because of this, we recommend approaching your first application of Cedarcide Original or Tickshield with caution. If you find your horse dislikes being sprayed, simply apply your chosen solution by misting your hands and massaging the spray into your horse’s coat.
If the spraying action does not bother your horse, apply Cedarcide Original or its extra strength counterpart, Tickshield, by misting your horse all over—including armpits, underbelly, and around the ears and tail. However, when applying these solutions, do not spray your horse’s face. Instead, spray the solution into your palms, and apply it to the face using your hands. Regularly treating your horses with Cedarcide Original or Tickshield will kill and provide protection against additional ticks, mosquitoes, flies, mites, gnats, ear mites and other biting insects.
Tips for Using Vet’s Choice on Horses
Vet’s Choice is an extra strength, all natural and highly versatile concentrate designed to control insects and parasites commonly found on pets and livestock. Vet’s Choice eliminates and repels ticks, mosquitoes, flies, mites, gnats, ear mites and dozens of other biting insects. Vet’s Choice can be mixed with water for use as a bath, spray or dip. It can also be used in stables and barns to reduce flying insects, or used as a treatment for mange and several other common skin disorders.
If you plan to spray your horse directly, use 4 oz. of Vet’s Choice per each gallon of water. For a bath, we suggest mixing 2 oz. of Vet’s Choice per each gallon of water. For a dip, use a 1:200 ratio of Vet’s Choice to water.
Tips for Using D.A.S. for Horses
D.A.S. (Domestic Animal Spray) is a ready-to-use, all natural and highly versatile solution designed to control insects and parasites commonly found on pets and livestock—think of it as a pre-diluted version of Vet’s Choice. Like Vet’s Choice, D.A.S. can be used as a bath, spray or dip, but with D.A.S. there’s no need to dilute beforehand. D.A.S. can be used in stable misting systems to reduce flying insects. It can also be used to treat mange and other common skin disorders. vr bgt/yuipo
Tip: D.A.S. works best when animals are thoroughly wetted with the product and allowed to air dry.
Dog parks are the playgrounds of the canine world—they’re fun, full of cute dogs, and the easiest way for your pup to socialize. Like actual playgrounds, without proper supervision and common sense, your animal child could get hurt. Read the following dog park tips & tricks to make the most of you and your dog’s precious play time.
At the minimum, bring the following items when visiting a dog park.
- Cell phone for emergencies (and documenting cuteness, too, of course!)
- Animal deterrent spray or air horn to protect both you and your pup from attacks
- Poop bags
- Cool, filtered water
- Your dog’s collar and leash
Leave the Treats and Toys at Home
While some dogs know how to share toys and treats successfully, others don’t. Introducing desirable objects like stuffed animals and snacks into a dog park is a powder keg waiting to blow. Aggressive defensiveness and fights over toys is almost a guarantee, and you or your dog could get hurt in the process.
Consider the Size of Your Dog
Some dog parks divide small dogs and large dogs to avoid potential confrontations. Others just throw every age, breed, and size all into one space. If your local park is of this last type, there’s a few things to watch out for. First, if you’re a large dog owner, never let your pooch scare or play too rough with smaller dogs—in fact, be cautious about any interaction with dogs much smaller than your own. If you’re a small dog owner, it’s probably best you find a small-breed-specific park, or find one where small and large dogs are kept separate.
Leave In-Heat and Pregnant Females at Home
Like with treats and toys, in-heat and pregnant females should never be brought to the park. For obvious reasons, this could lead to aggression, defensiveness and outright fighting.
Don’t Bring Puppies
Dog parks can be a rough environment for inexperienced, non-socialized dogs. That’s why puppies younger than 4 months should never be brought to the dog park. Young dogs are also more susceptible to infectious diseases, something dog parks are often riddled with.
Spay, Neuter, and Vaccinate Your Dog
Never, and we mean never, bring an ill, un-vaccinated, un-spayed or un-neutered dog to the dog park. This is a quick way to ruin the experience for everyone.
Master the “Come Here” Command
Do not take your pup to the dog park until you have consistent vocal control of them. Considering nearly every dog park is leash-less, the “come here” command is essential to ensure the safety of your dog. It’s best to hold off on visiting your local park until your animal friend understands and adheres to this command regularly.
Pick the Right Dog Park
If you have responsible dog owners as friends and relatives, ask them what dog parks they use most often, and which ones they recommend for your type of dog—this is often the best way to find a suitable park. (Pet Friendly Travel’s dog park locator works well, too). On the first visit to your selected dog park, carefully observe the setting before allowing your dog to enter. Are the grounds poorly maintained? Is there dog poop everywhere? Is it overly crowded? If “yes” is the answer to any of the above, keep looking—you haven’t found that perfect dog park yet.
Exercise Your Pup Beforehand
Recently exercised dogs are more relaxed, less aggressive, and overrall in a better state of mind. It might seem counterintuitive, but exercising your pup before visiting the dog park will almost always improve the experience.
Safeguard Your Dog From Fleas, Ticks and Parasites
Dog parks are notorious breeding grounds for fleas, ticks and parasites. In fact, a single, unprotected dog park visit could bring a full blown infestation to your own backyard (and living room!). Before and after dog park visits, be sure to spray both your pup and yourself with a natural, non-toxic insecticide and repellent. After your visit, you’ll need to check for ticks, too.
Size Up The Other Dog Owners
Dog owners—not dogs—determine the quality and safety of a dog park. Before letting your dog into the park, take a look around. Do the people at the park seem responsible? Do they have good control over their pups? If the answers are “no,” we advise you seek out another dog park or return another day.
Be Wary of Children
Bringing kids to the dog park is not ideal. Children’s erratic behavior, sudden movements, and general loudness can scare unfamiliar dogs, causing them to act aggressively. If you encounter children at the dog park, be wary of allowing your dog near them—the risks are simply too great. If for some reason you must bring your own child to the dog park, keep them near, watch them closely, do not allow them to run or scream, and keep them away from the other dogs.
Observe Your Dog’s Body Language
Always keep a close watch on your pup when visiting a dog park, and pay special attention to their body language (Sorry—but that means no excessive cell phone use!). Confrontations can usually be avoided simply by observing your dog’s mood. Signs of nervousness, defensiveness, or fear is the cue to relocate your dog to a safer, quieter space to play.
Know How to Break Up A Fight
It’s not fun and no one wants to think about it, but sometimes fights break out at dog parks. Knowing how to handle such a situation could save yourself an injury and maybe even your dog’s life. First, you must understand and be able to recognize the difference between playfulness and aggression: Dogs at play wag their tails, bounce on their paws, and otherwise look loose and relaxed; aggressive individuals look stiff, raise their hackles (those hairs running down their back), and appear intensely alert.
If the worst happens and your pup gets tangled in a fight with another dog, attempt to remain calm, and firmly command them to come back to you. Do not attempt to break up the fight yourself, you could be seriously injured. Instead, use the aforementioned air horn or animal deterrent spray—after all, you packed them for this exact situation. Afterwards, move your pet to another area or simply leave the park and return another day.
Remove The Leash
If your chosen park is leash-free, do not leave your dog on the leash. Dogs on leashes tend to feel less safe when surrounded by other leash-free pups, which can potentially cause aggressive defensive behavior. Plus, in a fast-paced, playful environment with dogs running around everywhere, leashes represent a serious safety hazard for both humans and other dogs.
Loudness and anxiety are things your pup and surrounding dogs will pick up on. Yelling commands at your dog, or generally acting distressed, can cause unwanted excitement among the dogs in the park, which can in turn lead to aggressive behavior. Just chill out, remain relatively quiet and relaxed, and everyone will have a much better time.
Spiders are everywhere. A recent study found that on average each square meter on our planet contains approximately 130 spiders. Which means if you’re reading this in a cubicle or kitchen nook roughly the size of a mattress, you’re being watched by about 1,040 beady, spider eyes! Their vast numbers are shocking, but nothing compares to spiders’ appetites. New research found that spiders consume upwards of 880 million tons of prey each year; by comparison all 7 billion humans on earth consume just 400 million tons of meat and fish combined. In fact, the amount of meat spiders consume each year outweighs the total biomass of all humans on our planet—in other words, spiders could, theoretically, consume every human on earth in just one year.
The numbers are shocking, but in truth, spiders are all but harmless to humans. Without question, our lives would be overrun with insects were it not for the spider, nature’s ruthlessly efficient exterminator. It’s for this reason that spiders are considered beneficial. And unless you’re absolutely terrified by them—or commonly seeing venomous individuals like black widows or brown recluses—we encourage you to leave them at their work. If you fall into the above category, though, we’ve got you covered. Here’s 10 all natural ways to get rid of spiders.
Clean & Remove Clutter From Your Home
Clutter and disorganization are a spider’s best friend, giving them ample space to hide and hunt. Consistently vacuuming, dusting, wiping down countertops, and de-cluttering your house will deter both spiders and their natural insect prey. When organizing your home, use sealable plastic containers instead of items like cardboard boxes, which do not adequately seal, providing spiders with yet another place to set up camp.
Clean & Remove Clutter From Your Yard
Brush, stacked wood, unused flowerpots, gardening equipment—spiders will make a home out of any outdoor clutter. Unkempt shrubbery, trees, and overgrown gardens also make ideal homes. Removing unnecessary clutter and keeping the lawn trim will reduce your spider population.
Seal Your Home
Even the smallest openings are a welcome mat to spiders. Windows, baseboards, doorways, light-switches, outlets, fixtures, wall & foundation cracks, chimneys, vents—all are potential spider entrances. Seal your home by remedying these cracks and openings using caulk—don’t forget to check basements and attics, too. The same process should be repeated outdoors as well, paying close attention to the roof and any foundation/wall cracks & holes. Screens or seals should be used to ensure windows, vents, chimneys, and doorways always remain firmly shut.
Turn Off The Lights
Traditional outdoor lights are irresistible to most insects, which makes them a dinner bell for spiders. Switching off these lights at night can do wonders for reducing spider populations. Indoor lights whose glow reaches outside are also a liability. For the former, consider trading your bulbs for yellow sodium vapor lights (which do not attract insects). For the latter, plan on installing additional window dressing to limit indoor lights from bleeding outdoors.
Get Rid of ALL the Bugs—Including Spiders
The most effective method for deterring spiders is to remove their food source—this entails adopting a general pest and insect control regimen, both inside and outside your home.
Traditional pesticides endanger your family, your pets and the environment. We recommend using only natural pesticides instead. For outside: Using a non-toxic, plant-safe pesticide, thoroughly spray your entire yard, including all shrubbery, gardens, bases of trees, and anywhere else insects and spiders might be hiding. We advise spraying front, back and side yards all in one session. To prevent pests from re-entering your yard, carefully spray along fence lines and foundations to create a repellent perimeter around your home and lawn. Repeat this process weekly—or as needed—until you no longer see spider activity.
For indoors: Using a non-toxic, non-staining natural pesticide/repellent, treat doorways, windowsills, baseboards and other suspected spider entry points. Continue treating these areas until your spider problems are resolved.
DIY Vinegar Spray
Spiders can’t stand vinegar—in fact, a direct spray is often fatal. Mix equal parts white vinegar and water to make a safe, all natural spider repellent. Using a spray bottle, apply this solution to doorways, window sills, known spider hangouts, and other possible entry points once a week until your spider problem’s resolved.
DIY Mint-Based Repellent
Spiders actively avoid the strong smell of peppermint, making it an effective solution for spider control. 5-10 drops of peppermint oil in 16 ounces of water will give you a handy spider repellent you can use throughout the home. As with the aforementioned vinegar, spray this solution in and around possible entry points and spider problem areas.
Citrus oils and peels are a highly effective method for repelling spiders. With a lemon oil spray or actual citrus fruit peels, you can deter spiders from entering your home. Place fresh peels skin-side-down along window sills and other spider problem areas, such as bookshelves, cabinetry and shelving. (Tip: citrus peels can also be used in your garden to limit spider activity).
Much like citrus, peppermint, and vinegar, cedar is a natural spider deterrent. Cedar chips/shavings can be broadcast throughout your lawn and garden to repel outdoor spiders. For indoor issues, apply cedar chips along common spider problem areas such as windowsills, near doorways, shelving, and closets.
For spider control, this chalky natural pesticide does double duty—killing and repelling not only spiders, but also spider-attracting insects. DE is highly abrasive, containing nearly microscopic edges which injure bugs that come in contact with it. Placing DE along spider problem areas and potential entry points will keep spiders at a distance.
Of all the pests people hate to see in their homes, cockroaches are right at the very top—and for good reason. While they don’t regularly bite or sting like other household pests—such as bed bugs, ants or fleas—roaches can be extremely bad for your health. In addition to worsening symptoms in asthma sufferers, roaches are known to carry over 50 different pathogens, including pneumonia, meningitis, salmonella, staphylococcus (staph infection) and streptococcus (strep throat). In other words, if you have roaches, you need to get rid of them as soon as possible.
Roaches, however, can be very difficult to eliminate. It’s no accident they’ve existed for over 300 million years, predating even dinosaurs. Their unique ability to hide and to live off nearly any food source—from feces to glue to other dead roaches—has made roaches one of our planet’s most durable organisms. If you have a roach infestation, don’t worry, there’s no reason to panic. With patience, consistent effort and a little know-how, you can send these disgusting insects packing. Here’s 10 ways to get rid of roaches naturally
Starve Them With Cleanliness
The smallest crumbs and spills can feed a roach for weeks, even months. Cleanliness needs to be a top priority. Floors, counter tops, flooring, appliances, cabinetry, sinks, dishes, back splashes—your entire house needs to be clean and free of food debris at all times (don’t forget to clean behind appliances!). We find natural disinfecting wipes help speed up the cleaning process.
Remove Clutter—Both Inside and Outside
Roaches use clutter—especially stacks of paper—to both hide and breed. Every instance of clutter is a roach nest just waiting to happen. If you’re experiencing a roach infestation, you need to keep your home as clean and free of clutter as possible. As far as outside, wood piles, brush, yard clippings, moist mulch, lawn equipment and furniture are all possible roach homes, and should also be removed.
Seal Up Your Food
Leaving unsealed food out in the open is an easy way to invite roaches over for a meal. From leftovers to dry items like cereal, all the food in your home needs to be sealed. If you have an active roach infestation, this includes unexpected things like pet food and fruit bowls, too. Ziplock bags work, but hard plastic Tupperware-like containers are even better. Make sure the outside of your sealed containers are free of sticky residues and food debris, too. And always thoroughly wash and rinse bottles and cans before recycling them—roaches are attracted to any residual sugar, no matter how small the amount.
Remove Their Water Source
While roaches can sometimes go weeks to months without food, they can go only a few days without water. A single drop of water can sustain a roach for several days. So, successfully ridding your home of excess moisture is essential to eliminating a roach infestation. Never let water sit for prolonged periods of time, such as in sinks, potted plants, and pet dishes.
It’s also important to address the following areas of concern: leaking plumbing, sinks, bathtubs, basements, crawl spaces, A/C units, appliance drip trays, and attics. In the case of severe infestations, you might need to wipe down your shower and sinks regularly to avoid even the smallest sources of moisture (damp rags, towels and sponges should not be left out, either).
Take Out The Trash Daily
Trash cans are a buffet for roaches. To prevent and repel these pests, you’ll need to take out the trash daily. Trashcans should also remain firmly sealed at all times, and be cleaned regularly to limit food debris and other residues.
Seal Your Home
While necessary, weatherstripping windows and doors only goes so far. When it comes to roaches, you have to be diligent, and go even further—no crack, crevice or hole can go unsealed. In this regard, caulk is your best friend.
Indoors: fill any cracks/holes in cabinets, pantries, counter tops, piping, walls, ceilings, attics, crawl spaces, basements, under sinks, floorboards, and anywhere else roaches could enter your home. Outside: fill any cracks in foundations, roofing, and the exterior walls of your home. It’s advisable to use plugs or stoppers to seal drains, sinks and bathtubs when not in use, too.
Make a Natural Homemade Repellent
A mixture of 30% peppermint oil to 70% water makes for a natural, non-toxic indoor roach repellent. Spray floors, counter tops, cabinets, window sills, doorways, and other problem areas to deter roaches. Cedar oil works, too.
Have catnip lying around? If so, you’re in luck: catnip is another natural roach repellent. In 1999, Researchers at Iowa State University discovered that catnip—specifically a chemical in catnip called nepetalactone—successfully repels roaches.
A DIY Roach Trap
There are several easy but highly effective roach traps you can make at home. They all work on the same basic premise: (1) bait the bottom of a container (like a bottle) with something that will attract roaches (like sugar, fruit or bread), and (2) make sure to build the trap in such a way that roaches can easily enter the container, but not escape. This last feature can be done by lining the walls of the container with something slippery like petroleum jelly, or by creating a funnel at the top of the container. Place these traps in high traffic roach areas and leave them overnight. Continue this approach until you no longer capture additional roaches.
Natural, non-toxic pesticides are the easiest and most effective solution for eliminating and preventing roach infestations. Because roaches often enter your home from your yard, it’s important to treat both inside and outside your house. We recommend using Cedarcide Original for indoor use—as both a spot killer and a repellent—and PCO Choice concentrate or ready-to-use Yardsafe for outdoor use.
Watch this video to learn how to properly treat your lawn with PCO Choice
DIY Roach Bait
Many experts advocate using a boric acid mixture to bait and kill roaches. While this approach is effective, it also poses health risks to pets and children. To avoid these risks, we advise using a 50/50 natural mixture of baking soda and sugar. Thoroughly mix the two ingredients and sprinkle the bait around roach problem areas and suspected entrance points—like windowsills, baseboards and doorways. Continue using this method until your roach infestation disappears.
At Cedarcide, we offer several pest-control solutions for both indoor and outdoor use. From concentrates to ready-to-use formulas, from personal & pet use to lawn & garden care, we have what you need to keep your home and yard free of pests.
But which products are right for you? To make your shopping experience easier, we’re launching a series of blog posts to help you better understand the differences between our most popular formulas. Today we’re talking about our two all-natural outdoor pesticides: PCO Choice and Yardsafe.
PCO Choice is an all natural, non-toxic and eco-friendly concentrate designed for outdoor pest control. PCO is engineered to devastate unwanted insect populations without adversely impacting soil or the environment—it kills and repels fleas, ticks, mosquitoes, grubs, mites, chiggers, ants flies, moths and many other pests. PCO contains 85% cedar oil.
Dilute PCO Choice With Water For Use On:
- Lawns & Gardens
- Trees & Shrubbery
- Pet Spaces
- Sports Fields
- Agricultural Land
- Trash Cans
- Foundation Barriers
- Fence Lines
- Dilute PCO with warm/hot water; shake to mix until milky white
- For Hose End Sprayers: Add 4 oz. of PCO per 20 gallons of sprayed water (treats up to 5,000 sq. ft. of outdoor space).
- For Tank Sprayers: Add 2 oz. per 1 gallon of water
- PCO can be diluted down to 1:1000 for larger, agricultural use
Yardsafe is an all natural, nontoxic and ready-to-use solution for outdoor pest control—think of it as a ready-to-use version of PCO Choice. Yardsafe eliminates unwanted insects without adversely impacting the soil or the environment. Yardsafe’s applications are the same as PCO Choice: lawns, gardens, pet spaces, sports fields, barns, agricultural land, foundation barriers and countless other outdoor spaces. Yardsafe also kills and repels fleas, ticks, mosquitoes, bed bugs, mites, chiggers, ants, flies, moths and many other pests. Yardsafe contains 15% cedar oil.
To use: Simply hook up the Hose End Sprayer directly to the bottle, then attach it to the hose and begin spraying. Avoid applications during peak sun hours, early morning or late evening is best.
How Are They Different?
Who Should Buy PCO Choice?
Generally those with larger yards or agricultural land choose PCO Choice because it’s concentrated, meaning it will treat considerably more outdoor space than the same amount of Yardsafe (1 quart of PCO covers approximately 1 acre of 40,000 sq. ft.). PCO is also customizable, allowing customers to dilute the solution to whatever concentration they prefer.
Who Should Buy Yardsafe?
Those looking for a convenient and quick solution to outdoor pest control. While PCO Choice will cover more ground because it’s a concentrate, Yardsafe is easier to use, with no need to dilute (1 quart of Yardsafe covers approximately 1/8 acre or 5,000 sq. ft.).
At Cedarcide, we offer several pest-control solutions for both indoor and outdoor use. From concentrates to ready-to-use formulas, from personal & pet use to lawn & garden care, we have what you need to keep your home and yard free of pests.
But which products are right for you? To make your shopping experience easier, we’re launching a series of blog posts to help you better understand the differences between our most popular formulas. Today we’re talking about our two all-natural insecticides/repellents: Cedarcide Original and Tickshield.
What is Cedarcide Original?
Our most popular solution, Cedarcide Original is an all natural, non-toxic insecticide & repellent for personal, pet and home use. Quick-drying and non-staining, Cedarcide Original’s formula contains 10% cedar oil is fast and effective on everything from general insect control to major infestations. It’s safe for people and pets of all ages, and can be applied directly to human skin or pet fur. Cedarcide Original kills and repels fleas, ticks, mosquitoes, bed bugs, mites, chiggers, ants, flies, moths and more. (Cedarcide Original is not a lawn & garden product—Do NOT use it on grass or other plant life). For more tips on how to use Cedarcide Original, check out the instruction sheet on the Cedarcide Original product page.
Tips for Using Cedarcide Original On Cats: While Cedarcide Original is non-toxic and cat-safe, on rare occasions smaller cats and kittens have found the natural cedar scent of Cedarcide Original too strong for their liking. For this reason, we recommend testing for sensitivity with a light initial application. For more info on cedar oil and cats, click here.
What is Tickshield?
Tickshield is an all natural, extra strength insecticide and repellent—think of it as a double strength version of Cedarcide Original (it contain 20% cedar oil). Tickshield is our strongest and longest-lasting formula, making it an ideal choice for hikers, campers and other outdoorsman. Like Cedarcide Original, Tickshield dries quickly and will not stain. It’s safe for people of all ages and larger animals (20+ lbs.). (We do NOT recommend using Tickshield on cats or smaller dogs). Tickshield kills and repels fleas, ticks, mosquitoes, bed bugs, mites, ants, chiggers, flies, moths and more. (Tickshield is not a lawn & garden product—Do NOT use it on grass or other plant life).
How Are They Different?
Tickshield is simply an extra strength version of all natural Cedarcide Original insecticide & repellent.
Who Should Buy Tickshield?
For those who require extra strength insect protection—think hikers, campers, fishermen, and other outdoorsman. Tickshield is also an ideal insect repellent for larger pets, such as large dogs (20+ lbs.) and horses.
Healthier, fresher, more eco-friendly—organic produce has become popular for a reason. The growing fear of toxic pesticides—which have been linked to cancer, behavioral disorders, and birth & developmental effects—is a factor, too, making more people question how their food is grown and where it comes from. Because washing/rinsing only reduces but does not eliminate pesticide residue from produce, it’s time to seriously consider going organic.
By U.S. regulations, “organic” produce must be grown without synthetic pesticides (natural pesticides are OK!), chemical-based fertilizers, artificial preservatives, and without GMOs (Genetically Modified Organisms). The resulting produce is of a much higher quality, but it’s often much more expensive. But don’t let that prevent you from choosing safer, more nutritional food for you and your family. In truth, You don’t have to go entirely organic to reap the benefits of organic produce. Just as some produce should always be purchased organic due to its high toxicity, some conventionally-grown produce can still be eaten without fear of pesticides or other ill effects. Here’s 12 items you should always buy organic (and 15 you really don’t have to).
(Don’t forget: Organic or not, you should always thoroughly wash & rinse all produce!)
The Envrionmental Working Group (EWG) evaluates pesticide usage and its efects on produce each year. For their latest findings, visit their website.
Always Buy These Organic:
The Environmental Working Group’s latest findings indicate that Strawberries are the absolute worst fruit or vegetable in terms of pesticide toxicity. The EWG’s stats show that on average over 300 lbs. of pesticides are used on each acre of non-organic strawberry fields. To make matters worse, strawberries are the most difficult fruit or veggie to adequately rinse, since all those little pits double as pesticide-trapping reservoirs.
Spinach is a highly nutritional alternative to lettuce or cabbage. However, unless you’re buying organic, spinach can also be harmful to your health. The EWG ranks this vegetable as the second most pesticide-covered fruit or veggie for 2017. Furthermore, according to the EWG, Spinach has on average twice as much pesticide residue by weight than any other crop.
They might be a sweet, tart and refreshing summer snack, but non-organic Nectarines contain several of the most dangerous pesticides in the world. Nectarines are #3 on the EWG’s most pesticide-ridden produce list for 2017.
Apples are the fourth most pesticide-contaminated fruit or vegetable in 2017 according to the Environmental Working Group, a nonprofit organization that monitors pesticide usage in the U.S. The average non-organic apple contains up to 48 different pesticides. According to information collected from the USDA, even after thorough washing, 98% of all apples still contain at least one toxic pesticide.
Peaches clock in at #5 on the EWG’s most pesticide-laden fruit and veggies list. Like strawberries, apples and spinach, 98% of all peaches—even after washing—contain at least 1 harmful pesticide.
On average, non-organically grown pears contain at least 40 known pesticides—8 are probable carcinogens, 7 are neurotoxins, 11 are suspected hormone disruptors, and 5 are thought to cause reproductive or developmental complications in women and children.
Even after washing, nearly 100% of all cherries contain detectable levels of toxic pesticides. Of all the food you should buy organic, this is right near the top of the list.
On average, a batch of grapes contains upwards of 60 different pesticides. From known carcinogens to neurotoxins and hormone disruptors, non-organic grapes are littered with frightening chemicals.
Celery is something of a gateway vegetable, with many parents introducing their children to vegetables by slathering these fibrous green stalks with ranch dressing and other dips. But if you plan to feed these to your children, you better buy organic—celery contains at least 64 different pesticides!
Starting in 2017, cherry tomatoes are no longer considered a risky pesticide crop. However, your standard tomato still ranks as one of the worst. With over 35 pesticides on your average tomato, you should definitely go organic when shopping for these fruits/vegetables.
Sweet Bell Peppers
Sweet bell peppers are quickly becoming one of America’s favorite snacks. Sadly, they also rank as of the most pesticide-riddled vegetables available. Sweet Bell Peppers come in at #11 on the EWG’s most pesticide-contaminated fruits and veggies rankings.
Non-organic sweet potatoes remain a relatively safe choice as far as pesticides go. The same, however, cannot be said of its starchier cousin, which is known to commonly carry upwards of 35 different pesticides!
Fruits & Vegetables You Don’t Have To Buy Organic
Due to their low pesticide toxicity and lack of GMOs & preservatives, the following fruits and vegetables do not need to be purchased organic:
- Sweet Corn
- Frozen Sweet Peas
- Honey Dew Melon
Growing Your Own Produce?
To keep your family, pets and the soil safe & healthy, be sure to choose eco-friendly, all natural pesticides for your lawn & garden.
Lyme Disease is said to affect more people in the U.S. than HIV, AIDS and even breast cancer. Early symptoms range from flu-like pain and exhaustion, to localized paralysis and memory loss. A startling 40% of those who contract Lyme disease, however, will suffer long term complications too—such as infertility, debilitating joint pain, daily fatigue, even depression. If not detected and treated early, Lyme can lead to permanent neurological impairment, heart damage and, in rare cases, even death. Here’s 10 more frightening things you might not know about Lyme disease:
Lyme-Carrying Ticks Can Be the Size of the Period At the End of This Sentence.
Ticks have four life stages: egg, larvae, nymph, and adult. Although not fully developed at the nymph stage, these immature ticks still spread Lyme disease. Worst yet, nymphs are essentially invisible. For perspective, the average nymph is smaller than the size of a grain of salt or pepper, smaller even than a pinhead (approximately 4/100 of an inch).
2017 Could Be the Worst Year For Lyme Disease We’ve Ever Seen
The CDC reports that on average the United States experiences 330,000 new cases of Lyme disease each year—that’s 38 cases per hour. And those numbers are only getting worse. Since 1982, the number of reported cases has increased 25X (that’s 2500%!). With spring coming earlier than expected this year in most parts of the country, and with an unusually large increase in rodent populations across the Northeast, experts are predicting that 2017 will likely be the worst year for Lyme disease on record.
Less than 20% of Lyme Disease Sufferers Develop the Infamous Bull’s Eye Rash
The most well known Lyme disease symptom is the bull’s eye rash. In fact, most people use this symptom to tell whether they’ve contracted the disease or not. However, only about 20% of people with Lyme ever develop this rash.
Children Are Most At Risk
As scary as Lyme disease can be, the thought that children are at the highest risk of contracting the disease is worse. The CDC reports that those between the ages of 3-14 are the most likely to suffer from Lyme. The elderly are the second most vulnerable.
On Average, It Takes 2-3 Years To Properly Diagnose Lyme Disease
Lyme disease is often called ‘The Great Imitator’ because of how difficult it is to accurately identify. Its wide array of symptoms often leads to misdiagnosis. In fact, it’s not uncommon for Lyme sufferers to visit several doctors before a correct diagnosis is made.
“My patients have usually been around the block by the time I assess them—this means dozens of physicians, prescriptions, and misdiagnoses,” says Neurologist and Clinical Neurophysiologist Dr. Elena Frid.
Lyme Medications Can Cause Even More Pain Than the Disease
Although relatively uncommon, about 15% of patients experience an adverse side effect to Lyme antibiotics called the Jarisch-Herxheimer reaction. As the medication begins to eliminate Lyme bacteria, the disease responds by releasing inflammation-causing proteins. Flu-like symptoms—fever, aches, chills—and both acute and general pain often result. While only lasting a short time, this reaction can leave you bed ridden for days.
Lyme Disease Affects Every State In The U.S.
Think because you live in the South you’re safe from ticks? Think again. Although over 90% of Lyme cases occur in the Northern U.S., cases of Lyme disease have been reported in all 50 of the United States. In fact, contracting Lyme disease in Southern regions can be even worse since the disease is far more likely to be misdiagnosed.
Lyme Can Spread From Mother To Baby During Birth
Not only can Lyme disease cause pregnancy complications such as infertility, it can also be passed onto children during birth. A frightening 20% of babies born to mothers suffering from Lyme will contract the disease. This method of contracting lyme can cause debilitating, even fatal, birth defects.
Lyme Disease Can Lead to Depression, Brain Fog, and Psychosis
While temporary memory loss and lowered cognitive function are common symptoms in those with lyme disease, long term symptoms can be much worse. Brain fog, life-threatening depression, and psychosis have all been linked to Lyme disease. These symptoms are known to last for as long as a decade.
Testing For Lyme Disease Is Often Unreliable
The Elisa test is perhaps the most administered test for Lyme disease across the country. Unfortunately, reports indicate that this test results in approximately 35% false negatives. Other sources have shown that upwards of 70% of all blood tests for Lyme result in either false negatives or false positives.
How Can You Avoid Lyme Disease?
Check out “How To Tick-Proof Your Yard Naturally”
The only way to reduce the probability of contracting Lyme is by limiting your exposure to Ticks. By creating an environment inhospitable to ticks and other biting insects, you can rest assured that you and your family will remain free of tick-borne illnesses like Lyme and the Powassan Virus. Although applying an all natural insect repellent to you and your pet before heading outdoors is important , treating your home and lawn is an equally necessary step to keep ticks away from you, your family and your pets.